Let’s start with the first answer… no, this is not me! I tried surfing once many years ago in Costa Rica and can accurately say its not my sport. For some reason I can hurdle myself down black diamond runs on skis or across the most gnarly mountain bike terrain, however ask me to stand on a surfboard and its instant face plant.
We are here at Ho’okipa Beach Park on the North side of Maui where the good surfers come out for some fun. I say good, as there is another area on the way to Lahaina where the beginners get going, and at the other extreme there is ‘Jaws’ at Peahi further up the road to Hana from Ho’okipa where the world’s most experienced surfers compete. This dude is one of 30 or so surfers out on this day.